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środa, 30 listopada 2016

HSM #11 - Red - 1810s spencer jacket


That "pregnant look" from early 19th century is not really my thing. I prefer my waist at it's natural level, tightly fitted even if that means I need to wear corset underneath for more than 12h in a row. The thing is, there are many amazing events that require us to wear these mostly unflattering yet very comfortable (let's be honest) clothes. But if you want to, you have to - and I have pretty extensive wardrobe from the period at this point.

Btw, I went full on redhead (again) two months ago.
The newest addition to it is a little spencer jacket I needed to keep me warm during the party in Branice last weekend. I took apart an old woolen coat (tedious work) and luckily I was able to fit my whole pattern into the pieces of wool I ended up with. The only minus of the whole scheme was the fact, that because I was recutting the wool I had to make my sleeves a litte bit tighter than I would like them to be. Still wearable. Still red. So not really a problem. Also, I may end up exchanging current hooks and eyes for the buttons. I really hate having to pin everything anyway to make it look decent despite having functional clousure, so prefer to avoid them whenever possible.

I don't know what do you mean by "You can't wear gold glittery holly in your hair at the reenactment".
Just try to stop me.

Podsumowując:

Wyzwanie: #11 - Czerwień
Tkanina: Czerwona wełna 100%, zielony jedwab na podszewkę
Wykrój: mój własny
Rok: ok. 1812
Dodatki: jedwabne nici, haftki, złoty sutasz, lniany sztywnik do usztywnienia przodu i kołnierza
Poprawność historyczna: 95%. Poza długimi szwami rękawów szyty ręcznie
Czas szycia: Nie mam pojęcia. Żakiecik był szyty po trochu przez półtora miesiąca (a i tak kończyłam w biegu)
Założona po raz pierwszy: 26.11.16
Całkowity koszt: ok. 60zł

In summary:

The Challenge: #11 - Red
What is it?: Spencer jacket from 1810s
Fabric: Red wool, green silk for lining
Pattern: my own
Notions: silk thread, hooks and eyes, gold soutache braid, stiff linen interlining for collar and front edges
Year: 1812ish
How historically accurate is it?: 95%.Apart from long sleeves seams was done entirely by hand.
Hours to complete: No idea - I worked on it on and off for month and a half. 
First worn: 26.11
Total cost: Around 15$ 

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